Making Liquid Hand Soap in a Blender (Just Two Ingredients!)

Staying clean and killing germs seems to be on everyone's minds these days, and the number one way to do this is still good old soap. Our great-grandmothers knew how to make their own, and so can we (it's a lot easier now for us than it was for them!) Thanks to blenders, silicone molds, and slow cookers, soap making doesn't have to be an all-day, sweaty job, producing something that could burn your hands. It's a pretty simple process really, and with modern tools and ingredients we can be sure of a safe and effective product.

This is also the best way to know just what's in your soap - if you have chemical sensitivities, or just don't like all of the added colors and scents, making your own is a simple way to know exactly what's going on your family's skin. And if you're into essential oils, you can easily add them to your finished product to give it whatever scent or other properties you desire. I like to add some peppermint eo to mine in the winter, for that candy cane sort of scent (and also because it repels spiders and mice!). In the summer, I use rose geranium eo for its tick-repellant properties (there are a lot of lymes-carrying ticks where we live, and rose geranium is supposed to be one of the most potent natural tick repellants). But feel free to use whatever scents you like (rosemary for better memory? citrus for a cheerier mood?) Or use none at all! You're in total control!

Here's how I make my soap:

You'll need just two ingredients (well, three if you count water), olive oil (NOT extra virgin - for some reason this doesn't work well. You want the cheap stuff, or even pomace grade if you can get it) and lye (for bar soap, you want sodium hydroxide; for the liquid soap we're making here, potassium hydroxide works better).

A word about lye: yes, this stuff is used as drain cleaner. Before saponification (chemically bonding with oil and turning into soap) it is very caustic and can cause chemical burns on skin. In the quantities we're using here, and in the contained environment of the blender, it's usually not overly dangerous, but it's still smart to be cautious, and not to do this around children and pets. If you do spill some on your skin, the best thing to do is to wash it off with soap and water (NOT vinegar). Once your soap is made, there will be no lye left - it will all have turned into soap (that's why all soap recipes should include more oil than lye; that way all of the lye has enough oil available to turn into soap, with a little extra just in case. This is called "superfatting" in the soaping world).

If you're still scared of lye, think of it like this: hydrogen and oxygen are extremely flammable. We all learned in grade school that a fire can't burn without oxygen (that's why candle snuffers work). But if you chemically bond the two, you get water, which we use to put out fires. The properties are completely changed. It's the same with lye in soap. Finished soap won't burn you.

You  also want to make sure that your olive oil is pure olive oil, and not a blend with other oils. Each kind of oil or fat (fat is just oil that is solid at room temperature) has a different ratio for bonding with lye to make soap, so if you have different kinds of oils you need to adjust your recipe to account for this, or you could end up with soap that still contains unbonded lye and can burn your skin.

OK, now that we got all of the safety information out there, I can show you how easy (and safe!) it is to make your own soap.

Here's my recipe:
9.12 oz (258.55g) water
3.04 oz (86.18g) lye (potassium hydroxide)
16 oz (453.59 g) olive oil

It's very important to have an accurate scale (as I said above, you want to make sure you have more oil than lye in your soap). Measure out your ingredients carefully, and if in doubt, err on the side of more oil and water and less lye, just to be on the safe side. But better not to doubt!

1. Measure out your water into a glass jar you won't use for anything else (I just use an old salsa jar)

2. In a separate container, measure out your lye.

3. Pour the lye into the water (never the other way around, it could "volcano" and overflow the jar and burn your hands). I always step out onto the porch for this so that the toxic fumes that are created can dissipate.

4. Let the lye and water mixture sit for 5 minutes, until the mixture looks clear. You can stir it with a metal spoon to make sure everything blends well. Make sure to leave it somewhere where it's safe from children and pets. Also, be aware that this will get really hot! Never use plastic for this (it will melt, and bond with your lye to make something else) and be careful what you set it on.

5. Meanwhile, measure out your olive oil into your blender. Make sure everything is tight and working properly - you don't want it leaking! This is why I also put my blender in a pan; if it does leak, it will go into the pan and not all over the counter top. Lye is particularly hard on butcher block counter tops - ask me how I know!!!

6. When your lye is ready, bring it inside and pour the lye mixture into the olive oil (you might want to use an oven mitt - it will still be really hot!) Cover the blender and turn it on to a relatively low speed.

7. Wait. Soap made with pure olive oil can take 20-30 minutes to blend. Be patient. Remember, Grandma used to have to stir this by hand all day!

You'll know this part of the process is done when the soap "comes to trace". This means that the soap has a thick, pudding-like consistency, and that when you stir it with a spoon it leaves a trace of where the spoon has been, it doesn't just flatten out again like when it's fully liquid.

At this point, you have your soap base. If you wanted to make regular soap bars, you could pour this into your mold and let it sit for 4 weeks to finish saponifying ("cure"). It's not finished soap yet; all of the chemical reactions haven't fully happened.

Or, you can speed up the process with heat, which is what we'll do in the next step.

8. Pour the soap base into a slow cooker. I like to use my Instant Pot, because the stainless steel insert doesn't react with the soap. I've done this in a regular Crock Pot, and the process eventually (after multiple batches of soap) ate away at the enamel and ruined the pot. I don't worry about having a separate pot for soap making, since once it's cooked I have finished soap, just like what I use to clean the pot after cooking.

You'll want to cook the soap base on low for several hours, stirring a couple times just to make sure it's cooking evenly and to see how it's coming along. It will go through several stages; it will start out like pudding, then look something like applesauce, and eventually get to a stage when it looks more like yellow mashed potatoes, with no liquid left. When it's thick like this, it's ready for the next step.

Again, this is a point where you have options. You can pour it into a mold and wait for it to cool to make bars (it's fully soap at this point, so you don't have to wait for it to cure), or you can mix in water to make liquid soap, as I'll show you in the next step.

9. Mix in 5-6 cups of water. This, for me, is the tricky part. Too much water, and you end up with runny soap (which you can cook off; just turn your slow cooker back on and let the excess water evaporate); too little, and your soap is too thick and gloppy and will clog up your pumper (to fix this, just add more water - which is much easier than boiling off excess, so I usually start with 5 cups of water and tweak from there).

Mixing it can also be a challenge; I like to use my stick blender, which does a pretty thorough job, but leaves the soap foamy, so you need to wait for it to settle before pouring it into its final container. A whisk and good old elbow grease will do the job, too, with less foam - but I'm lazy and have a stick blender.

As I mentioned before, you can add essential oils to your finished soap, either to the whole batch when you store it or to the pumper when you're ready to use it. You want to add them at the end, when your soap is cool, since essential oils are heat-sensitive.

And that's it! Kind of putzy, and it does take a while (most of it waiting while the blender runs or the soap cooks), but not really that hard. In only a few hours every month or so, you can keep your family stocked with soap!

Our Second Year Making Maple Syrup in Our Back Yard - 2020 Totals

We pulled our taps today and officially ended our 2020 maple syrup season. I was a little sad to see the season end, but with the snow off the garden there's plenty of other things around here to keep me busy.

We did a few things differently this year, the main one being my boiling setup. My husband was never happy with the cheap cobbled-together six block setup I used last year, and started with again this year.

We searched online for better DIY setups, and finally settled on this one: 

Side View

firebox view

We bought the blocks (thirty-six 8"x8"x16" cement blocks) for under $50 (they just happened to be on sale for 98 cents each at Menard's that week), and it was well worth it for how much easier and pleasant it made the process. The high chimney had a great draw, so once we got everything snugged up, it was almost smokeless for me sitting next to it (you can see steam rising from the pans in the pictures above, not smoke). In our first version, we'd only had the firebox two blocks high, which meant bending almost to the ground to fill (not a big change from my old six-block version). We decided to raise it up another block high to make it easier for me to ladle sap from one pan to another - my back is mostly back to normal after my herniated disc last summer, but I'm not eager to aggravate it again! The taller firebox weakened the chimney's draft, though. To fix this, we filled in the bottom of the firebox up to the level of the first blocks with dirt. We lined the bottom with a piece of stainless steel roofing panel that was lying around (hooray for obtanium!) to keep the wood off the cold, wet ground. This also made it easier to clean out the ashes between boiling sessions (the ashes and biochar were then sprinkled on the garden beds, of course!). 

With the fire more contained, it was also more consistent, which made the boiling much more efficient. Since I could boil more in one sitting now, I was able to put in more taps and gather more syrup each day. We went from 16 taps last year to 23 this year; a couple of those new trees were really prolific, and our production jumped from 3 1/2 gallons of finished syrup last year to 10 gallons this year. 

Another upgrade this year was the purchase of a Brix tester (see link below, or click here to see the one I bought) (I learned about this tool in the book Sweet Maple by Michelle Visser - which I highly recommend! It's full of useful information about all aspects of the maple syrup making process, as well as directions on how to make maple cream and maple sugar - and of course plenty of tasty maple syrup recipes!)

My syrup always seemed thinner than what I'd purchased from the store, and after problems with two inaccurate thermometers, I decided to stop messing around and buy something more exact. It's a little picky to work with, but well worth it in my opinion just for the peace of mind that I was doing it right. It lets you know exactly when your syrup is at the right concentration (66-68% sugar, or "Brix")

If you don't want to spend that much just for peace of mind, I've found that bringing your sap to the point that it sheets off of a spoon is a good non-technical (and free!) way to know that your sap is done (here's a quick 12 second video I took tonight to show you what it looks like, in case you don't know - I didn't!) This is the same as the test you'll see in many old cookbooks for knowing when your jelly or jam will set.

So, here's my final numbers for 2020:
Number of trees tapped: 23
Number of days I boiled sap: 13
Cost of new supplies: $175
     $100 (more taps, bags, and hangers)
     $45 (blocks for new evaporator)
     $130 (Brix tester)
Value of finished syrup (local price $12/quart) $480
                                     Net savings: $305

So my investment that just broke even last year ($150 in supplies for just over 3 gallons of syrup), easily absorbed the cost of the upgrades I made this year and still saved over $300. Not a bad return for a few sessions of sitting around a campfire on a sunny spring afternoon!

Fast and Easy Ricotta Cheese

In the last few months, I've finally gotten back into the habit of making cheese regularly (click here for my basic cheese recipe from way back in 2013). And since I usually make about four gallons of milk's worth at a time, that leaves a lot of whey behind. Being a waste-not-want-not kind of girl, of course I use it to soak my chicken feed (whey contains albumen, a protein that laying hens need for egg development) or add to my garden (whey is a rich source of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and many other micronutrients, and can be applied directly to the garden). But before I use it for either of those, I cook it one more time to make ricotta cheese.

I had read that you could make ricotta simply by heating the whey leftover from making a rennet cheese until a fine cloud of cheese forms just under the surface. Then you simply strain it through a cloth overnight and voila! a lovely dish of creamy ricotta.

While this method does work, the yield is ridiculously low and the process is excessively putzy. The cheese made this way is extremely fine, and quickly clogs up the straining cloth. If you want to keep the whey draining, it's necessary to scrape down the cloth almost constantly (which takes HOURS for this quantity of whey), and even so you end up with only about a cup of cheese (from the aforementioned nearly four gallons of whey).

I was just about ready to give up on making ricotta altogether. It was just too much trouble for so little results. But then, a few days ago, I was re-reading David Asher's The Art of Natural Cheesemaking (you can see my review of the book here) and saw his recipe for "fast ricotta". And just like that, I found the solution to my problem. In his recipe, he not only boils the whey briefly (where the first recipe simply heated it until the cheese started to separate), but he also adds 1/4 cup of vinegar. This made a HUGE difference. From the same whey, in less than half an hour (with no scraping of the cloth), I made a full quart of ricotta cheese.

What a relief! I have to admit, the kids were laughing at me as I did a happy dance around the kitchen. It was so much faster, and so much easier. Manicotti Monday has been saved!

In case you'd like to try this for yourself, here's what I did:

Fast and Easy Ricotta Cheese
Heat the whey leftover from making a rennet cheese; bring to a boil. You don't have to stir; the boiling will take care of that for you. Add 1/4 cup of vinegar (white or apple cider vinegar both work fine) or 1/2 cup of lemon juice and bring back to a boil for a moment. Then turn off the heat and let stand for 5-10 minutes.

Line a colander with a damp cotton dish towel and set into a pot large enough to catch your whey. Scoop out the cheese (or just pour all of it through the towel if your pot is small enough; I have to ladle most of it out before I can lift the pot). Most of the whey will drain immediately, but you can hang it if you'd like it to drain more.

Here's my setup (very fancy, I know)

When it's drained to your liking, scoop the cheese into a container and refrigerate. Ricotta is a soft cheese, so you should use it within a week.